Sewing Machine Needles

The Structure of the Sewing Machine Needle

All sewing machine needles are structured the same way, but the parts that make up the needle may vary in shape and size.

All Sewing Machine Needles Include:

  • Shank - The upper part of the needle that is inserted into your sewing machine, consisting of a flat and a round side for home machines. Industrial sewing machine needles, however, consist of a completely round shank.
  • Shaft - the remainder of the body of the needle, from the shank to the point, is referred to as the shaft.
  • Groove - Along the side of your needle will be the groove for the thread to side into the needle. For a heavier thread, you would want a larger groove.
  • Scarf - Above the eye of your needle will be an indention that allows the thread to be picked up by the bobbin hook.
  • Eye - At the end of the needle will be a hole for your thread to pass through, and the size can vary from needle to needle.
  • Point - The very tip of the needle is the point, and this is the part of the needle that makes contact with the fabric first, pushing the needle through.
  • Regular Point (Style 2020) - This type of needle is made to penetrate the threads of all woven fabrics.
  • Chromium Regular-Point (Style 2000) - These needles are used for sewing woven fabrics and can be used on all SINGER® and QUANTUM® embroidery machines. This needle is stronger, lasts longer, and is made to withstand the high stitching speeds used in embroidery machines.
  • Ball-Point (Style 2045) - The ball-point needles are typically used when you are sewing on knits. To avoid skipped stitches, the tip is rounded to allow the needle to pass through the fabric by separating the threads. You should not use a regular point needle on the knit fabric as it can cause skipped stitches or damage to the fabric.
  • Chromium Ball-Point (Style 2001) - The Chromium Ball Point needles are used in knit fabrics on every QUANTUM® and SINGER® embroidery machines. This needle is stronger, lasts longer, and tolerates the high speeds seen in embroidery machines.
  • Denim and Jeans (Style 2026) - This type of needle is recommended specifically for sewing the heavier fabrics of denim, jeans, and canvas.
  • Twin Needles (Style 2025) - A twin needle is used for decorative stitching - this is done by simultaneously stitching two parallel rows.
  • Hemstitch and Wing-Needles (Style 2040) - This needle is used in heirloom sewing by creating a little hole in the fabric as you are sewing. It is recommended to be used with woven fibers, such as linen or cotton.
  • Wedge-Point (Style 2032) - These needles are specifically designed for specialty fabrics such as leather, suede, buckskin, or vinyl.

Choosing the Right Type of Sewing Machine Needles

  • Regular-Point (Style 2054-42) - This type of needle is made to penetrate the threads of all woven fabrics. The serger needle is for use with your SINGER® model 14U serger/overlock sewing machine.
  • Ball-Point (Style 2054-06) -  These needles are for when you are sewing on knits. To avoid skipped stitches, the tip is rounded to allow the needle to go through the fabric by separating the threads. A regular point needle should not be used on the knit fabric as it can cause skipped stitches and cause damage to the fabric by causing it to curl. The serger needle is for your SINGER® model 14U serger/overlock sewing machine.
  • Chromium (Style 2022) - These serger needles are suggested for your ULTRALOCK® 14SH or SINGER® model QUANTUMLOCK® 14T serger/overlock sewing machine.

Recommended Sewing Machine Needles for Your Fabric

  • Sheer to Lightweight:
    • Fabric Examples: Chiffon, Batiste, Organza, Georgette, Voile, and microfiber or micro-denier fabrics.
    • Recommended Needle: Regular-Point (9/70 or 11/80)
  • Lightweight:
    • Fabric Examples: Chambray, Challis, Crepe de Chine, Charmeuse, Gauze, Silk, Taffeta, Handkerchief Linen, and Tissue Faille.
    • Recommended Needle: Regular-Point (11/80)
  • Medium-Weight:
    • Fabric Examples: Brocade, Broadcloth, Chintz, Chino, Flannel, Corduroy, Poplin, Linen, Satin, Taffeta, Synthetic Suedes, Terry, and Velvet
    • Recommended Needle: Regular-Point (14/90)
  • Medium to Heavy-Weight:
    • Fabric Examples: Damask, Coating, Drapery Fabric, Gabardine, Fake Fur, Ticking, and Woolens
    • Recommended Needle: Regular-Point (16/100 or 18/110)
  • Denim, Canvas, and Jeans:
    • Recommended Needle: Denim and Jeans (16/100)
  • Sheer to Lightweight Knits:
    • Fabric Example: Single Knit, Jersey, Spandex, and Tricot
    • Recommended Needle: Ball-Point (10/70 or 12/80)
  • Medium to Heavy-Weight Knits:
    • Fabric Example: Sweatshirt, Double Knit, and Sweater Knit
    • Recommended Needle: Ball-Point (14/90)
  • Specialty Fabrics:
    • Fabric Example: Leather, Buckskin, Suede, and Vinyl.
    • Recommended Needle: Wedge-Point (14/90 or 16/100)

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What Are Sewing Scissors Used For?

Fabric-specific scissors and shears are used for one thing: cutting fabric.

They should cut smoothly and cleanly and feel comfortable when you use them. You should always use the appropriate type of scissors and shears for your fabric if you want them to last and you want your fabric to cut cleanly.

Using your sewing scissors to cut anything but fabric is a quick way to ruin a good, and possibly expensive, pair of scissors. Keep them sheathed or otherwise properly stored when not in use and always use a different pair of scissors for paper and other non-fabric cutting applications.

Choosing the Right Scissors for Your Fabric

Different types of scissors have specific functions, such as spring-mounted thread clippers, which are perfect for opening buttonholes and snipping off thread ends in everyday sewing. Dressmaker shears are designed to cut just about any type of fabric, from fine silks and cotton to the heaviest denim and leather.  Synthetics tend to shred a little with dressmaker shears and standard fabric scissors, so serrated-edged scissors are a much better choice. These Mundial shears have cushioned handles and micro-serrated stainless steel edges that ensure clean cuts without slipping.

What to Look for In A Pair of Scissors or Shears + -

Of course, you want to look for a good quality brand. At Goldstar Tool, we carry brands like Mundial, Wescott, Wiss, and our own Goldstar brand of scissors. Scissors can be expensive, but price isn’t always a good indicator of how good they are. Just because they are pricey does not automatically make them good. Stainless steel forged blades are strong, sharp, and will last a long time. When choosing a good pair of blades, you should ask yourself… Are they comfortable? If they don’t feel right when you’re cutting, they’re not right for you. A good pair of shears should be sharp and cut cleanly through your fabric from the start to the end. Of course, with use, they may need sharpening, which should restore them to a like-new condition. However, if they don’t cut well when they’re new, sharpening really won’t help, and it may be time to invest in a better pair. When you buy new shears or scissors, ask yourself… Is it the right type for your needs? Do you need a longer set of dressmaker shears, or would a pair of offset scissors work better? Will they cut thin fabrics as well as thicker fabrics, or do you need a separate pair for heavier materials? Remember that a good pair of scissors is an investment, so put some thought into your choice and be sure to take care of them. Repeatedly buying inexpensive scissors that you throw away can add up to a costly expense. 

Types of Shears + -

Dressmaker shears are the most important scissors to have. Heavier than traditional scissors, they’re designed to cut fabrics of all types and typically do so very well. These Mundial shears are engineered for right-handed or left-handed users, and come in 6”, 7” and 8” models (including left-handed 8”.) Our Goldstar brand 8-inch forged stainless steel shears cut the entire length of the blade, all the way to the tip. If you prefer pinking shears, we have two types from the GoldStar line. Our heavy-duty shears have classic metal handles, and the other has cushioned plastic handles. For the quilter, Mundial professional quilting scissors in either 5 ½,” 8 ½, or 9 ½” offer soft grip cushioned insert handles for comfort and extended use.  Do you enjoy applique work? Our Mundial applique scissors help you make quick work of trimming around appliques, as well as evenly trimming Are buttonholes your nemesis? Our exclusive buttonhole scissors have a screw that stops you from cutting through your carefully made buttonholes. Safer than regular scissors or a scalpel, the screw limits your cutting length, so you cut exactly the length you need.

Other Cutting Products + -

Keep your scissors handy with a leather belt/hip holster, animal print belt holster or a lanyard that hangs around your neck. These will keep your shears handy and always available. Rotary cutters are a great way to do precise, fast cuts with ease. Goldstar Tool’s rotary cutters make fast work of whatever you need to cut. We also carry the replacement blades for all of our rotary cutting tools. Straight paper cutting is fast and easy with Westcott Titanium Bonded Paper Trimmer. It trims up to ten sheets of paper quickly with a completely safe, no-touch covered blade assembly.

Caring for Your Shears and Scissors

Caring for Your Shears and Scissors

Keeping Your Shears and Scissors in Tip Top Shape + -

The first thing you should NEVER do is cut anything but fabric with your scissors and shears intended for fabrics. The second is to never cut into a pin or needle since it will damage them permanently. When you’re finished using your shears, the best thing you can do is wipe the blades with a dry cloth to remove lint, threads, dust, and other small particles that can make them harder to use. Synthetic fibers can also dull the blades. Clean away the dry particles after every use. Keep your shears and scissors working smoothly with a small drop of quality sewing machine oil in the fulcrum or the pivot screw. Carefully open and close them a few times (point down) to distribute the oil, and wipe them, spreading some of the remnant oil over the blades. You want to oil your scissors and shears about once a month, more if you use them daily.  Of course, be careful not to drop them, or they could be damaged to the point of being unworkable.

Sharpening Your Shears and Scissors + -

When they just don’t cut like they used to, sharpening is a must to prevent damage to your fabrics. You may have heard that cutting through aluminum foil steel wool and/or sandpaper as a way to quickly sharpen your dulled scissors. Despite their popularity, we don’t recommend these methods. Think about it—if you shouldn’t use your sewing shears and scissors for paper and other things, or attempt to cut through a pin or needle, why would you use either of these to sharpen a blade? There are better ways to sharpen your shears at home or in your commercial shop. Need something small and efficient to keep around? These handy Scissors And Blade Sharpeners are economical, convenient, and sharpen on the fly. Our ExtremEdge V2 Knife and Shear Sharpener is a fast, easy way to sharpen non-serrated scissors and knives safely. The bottom section holds it in place for simple one-handed operation, and it’s sold for a reasonable price. If you have more than a few pairs of scissors, sending them out for sharpening can shut down operations. Our Wolff Industrial Twice as Sharp Scissor Sharpening System is an investment that will save you and your workers time and money, and keep your scissor arsenal sharp and cutting perfectly every time. Priced at under $500, you can sharpen your tools in-house whenever you need to. Plus, it comes with instructions so that anyone can learn to use it for fast on-demand sharpening.  Pinking shears, like our own soft-handled or heavy-duty shears, are best sharpened by a professional. There’s no reason to keep working with dull scissors and shears. Get one of our exclusive sharpening tools today.